Getty Images; Alyssa Powell/BI
- Hair transplants are popular but involve surgery, high costs, and recovery time.FoLix, a laser treatment for hair loss, could be a nonsurgical alternative. Not everyone is a candidate.This article is part of "Transforming Treatments," a series on medical innovations that save time, money, or discomfort.
Hair transplants have exploded in popularity in recent years — so much so that flights returning from Turkey packed with men sporting freshly transplanted hairlines have become a meme. And the stigma surrounding the once-taboo procedure is lessening.
In August, John Cena said his recent hair transplant "completely changed the course of my life." While effective, transplants are still surgeries that require thousands of dollars, time off work, and a multi-week recovery process.
However, FoLix, the first FDA-cleared fractional laser of its kind, administered in-office by a provider, offers men and women a surgery-free way to help with their hair loss. Dermatologists say that the new treatment, which began appearing in clinics over the past year, could be a game changer for patients who may not like the daily regimen of pills or the invasiveness of hair transplant surgery.
What is FoLix?
FoLix is considered a noninvasive (no surgery!) fractional laser treatment that stimulates hair in both men and women through existing hair follicles.
Lasers aren't totally new for hair loss. Dr. Dendy Engelman, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City who does not offer FoLix, said that it differs from other treatments like red-light caps. That's because FoLix creates microscopic channels in the scalp to trigger a controlled healing response, boost circulation, and deliver growth signals to the follicles for natural hair growth.
By comparison, red light caps passively stimulate follicles, whereas FoLix taps into the body's wound-healing response for stronger, more visible hair growth, Engelman said.
Each FoLix session takes about 20 to 30 minutes in the office, requires no anesthesia, and has little to no downtime. Dr. Marc Avram, a board-certified dermatologist and hair loss specialist in New York City who offers FoLix to patients, tells patients they can head right back to work after getting it done without anyone noticing.
There's also no special aftercare instructions with FoLix like there are with some other skin lasers — this means that normal outdoor exposure to the sunlight is fine, and patients can shower or wash their hair within 24 hours. You can also continue using topical treatments like minoxidil, which are widely used to stimulate hair growth, after 24 to 72 hours, should you want to enhance the effects.
Like other hair treatments, FoLix isn't a one-and-done treatment. You'll need it done regularly, three to six times in your first year (spaced anywhere from a few weeks to a month apart each), and then again up to twice a year for maintenance.
The cost for FoLix can range from $750 to $1,250 per session. Avram's office, for example, charges $1,000 per session.
Who is a candidate for FoLix?
Both Engelman and Avram said that FoLix is best suited for patients who are in the early to moderate stages of hair loss.
"The ideal candidate is someone with intact but underperforming follicles," Engelman said. "It's not intended for individuals with complete baldness or extensive scarring as the treatment relies on reactivating existing follicles, not replacing them."
As for what is considered hair loss vs. what's just bad lighting, Avram said to look for a subtle density drop in hair, a widening part in women, or a softened frontal hairline in men. Simply seeing your cowlick or hair whorl on your scalp under not-so-flattering lighting doesn't count, said Avram (although yes, seeing the back of your hair whorl can sometimes be jarring).
Avram also said that FoLix may appeal more to people who don't want to use daily oral medications for hair loss like finasteride or minoxidil, either for personal reasons like side effects or due to lifestyle factors. People who travel a lot for work, are away on weekends, or just forget to keep up with a daily medicine regimen may find the cadence of in-office FoLix easier to keep up with — more like a twice-yearly dental cleaning than a constant endeavor.
Another in-office procedure that treats hair loss is PRP, or platelet-rich plasma therapy; however, such treatment does require a blood draw — whereas FoLix does not.
Cons and other considerations
FoLix isn't an instant fix. It does take a few sessions and requires 1-2 maintenance treatments each year after your initial year of sessions.
While FoLix has few side effects, you should be prepared for some mild and temporary things like redness, tightness, or slight scalp sensitivity.
You might also experience some temporary shedding post-treatment. Don't be concerned, Avram said: this happens with other treatments like minoxidil, PRP, and even Rogaine. It passes, and isn't anything to worry about.
Though FoLix isn't inexpensive, Engelman said it's still a more affordable option compared to surgical alternatives.
The bottom line
Before you rush down to a clinic to try FoLix, consult a doctor if you have hair loss.
"You can lose hair for many reasons. You can lose hair from skin diseases, for example. Not everyone losing hair is genetic." Avram said. While for many, losing hair can be just a sign of aging, for others, there may be more at play.
"For almost any issue, if you pick it up early, you're going to have a better chance for success with these treatments," Avram said.
