Derek Sivers blog 09月29日
定制西装的奇妙旅程:从纽约计划到伦敦裁缝
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作者原本计划搬到纽约,希望通过在公共场所写作来融入城市生活。为了更好地融入,他决定定制一套高品质的西装。在伦敦期间,他有机会在萨维尔街体验了定制西装的独特过程,并找到了传奇裁缝迈克尔·布朗。经过六个月的多次试穿和沟通,他拥有了两套精心制作的西装。尽管最终未能实现纽约的计划,而是回到了新西兰,但他现在仍然乐于在公共场合穿着这些定制的西装。

🌟 缘起纽约计划:作者计划搬往纽约,为避免宅家,制定了“白天不在家”的规则,意识到需要改善形象以适应公共场所的活动,这促使他萌生了定制西装的想法。

👔 伦敦定制之旅:作者利用在伦敦的机会,体验了在著名萨维尔街(Savile Row)的定制西装过程。他通过朋友的介绍找到了被誉为伦敦最佳裁缝的迈克尔·布朗,并开始了为期六个月、六次试穿的定制体验。

🤝 裁缝的匠心指导:迈克尔·布朗在定制过程中,不仅关注西装本身,还深入了解作者的个人情况、职业、自我认知和未来规划,并根据这些信息挑选了最合适的款式和面料。他还指导作者选择了配套的衬衫(John Smedley)和鞋子(Catella Shoemaker)。

✨ 特殊时期的独特体验:整个定制过程恰逢2020年初的疫情封锁期间,作者得以在空无一人的伦敦中心体验与裁缝在静谧工作室中深入交流的独特经历,这为定制过程增添了别样的意义。

🏡 计划变更与新常态:尽管最终因疫情和家庭原因未能移居纽约,而是回到了新西兰,作者依然珍视这两套定制西装,并将其融入日常生活,在公共场合穿着,延续了当初为了融入社会而进行的形象升级。

In 2020, I was about to move to New York City.I wanted to get to know all of its ethnic enclaves, like visiting the whole world in one city.But I know I have a tendency to stay at home, immersed in my work.

So I made a rule for myself.If I move to New York, I must not be home between the hours of 9am to 5pm.I would do all of my writing and reading in public places as a way of keeping myself out in the world.But that meant thousands of hours of sitting in cafés, museums, libraries, and such.I might not be very welcome, unless I looked high-class.

I had been meaning to get nicer clothes anyway.I saw myself on stage and realized my appearance no longer matched my self-image.My friend Meng Weng Wong had made a great argument in favor of wearing a great suit.Now I had two reasons.

Actually I had three reasons, because I was living near London at the time, and realized this was my one-and-only chance to have a custom suit made on the famous Savile Row, just to have that once-in-a-lifetime experience.

So I nerded out for a week, spending a few hours a day reading books on the subject and watching a great YouTube channel called Sartorial Talks.Its creator, Hugo Jacomet, is passionate and fascinating on the subject of well-made clothing.He (and others) said that the best tailor in all of London is a man that used to work on Savile Row, but has surpassed it.That’s the great Michael Browne.

I contacted Michael but he didn’t reply.So I contacted Hugo Jacomet, and he very kindly introduced me to Michael, who agreed to see me the following week.Michael asked me about who I am, what I do, my self-image, my audience, my plans, and more.Then he picked a style and fabric and got to work.It took six visits over six months before the suit was done.

He asked what shirt I’d be wearing with it, and I said, “Whatever shirt you think I should wear.”He told me to get John Smedley roll necks in sea island cotton, so I did.

He asked what shoes I’d be wearing, and I said, “Whatever shoes you think I should wear.”He told me to go to Daniel Wegan of Catella Shoemaker, so I did.

We did all of these fittings during the first round of Covid lockdowns, early 2020.It was amazing to be in central London while it was completely empty, meeting at his atelier office, spending hours talking while he worked.When the suit was all done, he made a duplicate in a different fabric, so now I have two.

Anyway, due to Covid and family things, we didn’t move to New York City at all.Moved back to New Zealand instead.So now I just wear my suits whenever I’m in public.

photo of Michael Browne from Robb Report

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定制西装 萨维尔街 迈克尔·布朗 伦敦 时尚 个人形象 Bespoke Suit Savile Row Michael Browne London Fashion Personal Image
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