Popular Science 09月29日 10:50
早餐食物的选择,源于文化而非科学
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这篇文章探讨了我们对早餐食物的认知并非基于科学,而是深受文化影响。文章指出,美国人普遍认为的早餐组合,如鸡蛋、培根和煎饼,以及英国的豆子和炸面包,都显示了不同地域的饮食习惯差异。更进一步,文章揭示了部分“传统”早餐食物,如培根和橙汁,是如何通过20世纪的营销活动被有意塑造成早餐选择的。例如,爱德华·伯内斯利用医生推荐来推广培根,而橙汁则因生产过剩而被定位为健康早餐饮品。“早餐是一天中最重要的一餐”的说法也源于营销而非科学研究。最终,文章强调,早餐的定义更多是文化约定俗成,而非客观事实。

🍳 早餐食物的选择具有鲜明的文化属性,并非基于客观科学分类。文章以美国、英国、加拿大、日本及拉丁美洲的早餐习惯为例,说明不同文化背景下,人们对“早餐食物”的定义截然不同。例如,在美国普遍认为的早餐食物(如培根、煎饼)在其他文化中可能并不被视为早餐。

🥓 培根之所以成为美国早餐的经典组成部分,很大程度上归功于20世纪初的一场有目的的营销活动。爱德华·伯内斯(西格蒙德·弗洛伊德的侄子)通过一项看似由医生推荐的“调查”,成功地将培根和鸡蛋塑造成了“全美式早餐”,从而大幅提升了培根的销量。

🍊 橙汁成为常见的早餐饮品,也与当时的经济需求有关。20世纪40年代,为应对橙子过剩的问题,食品行业通过营销将其定位为健康的早餐选择,鼓励人们大量饮用,这并非基于其固有的早餐属性。

💪 “早餐是一天中最重要的一餐”这一说法,也并非源于严谨的科学研究,而是由一家谷物公司在1944年的一场营销活动中推广开来,并逐渐演变为一种广为流传的文化观念。尽管科学研究对此的看法不一,但营销的成功使其深入人心。

🤔 最终,文章总结认为,我们对早餐食物的认知是文化约定俗成的结果,而非基于任何客观事实。虽然这些食物本身可能具有营养价值,但将其归类为“早餐”更多是我们集体文化选择的体现,有时甚至会受到商业利益的有意影响。

Quickly: Picture a breakfast. If you live in the United States, there’s a good chance you were picturing some combination of eggs, bacon, cereal, and/or pancakes. Of course, we also know that a classic British breakfast consists of beans and fried bread—two savory foods most Americans don’t associate with their first meal of the day. Is there a science behind why we think of some foods as breakfast and others as not? 

The answer is…not really. It’s a good example of a category that feels objective but is actually cultural. We eat certain foods for breakfast because we think of them as breakfast foods, and we think of them as breakfast foods because we tend to eat them for breakfast. Breakfast isn’t a scientific category. 

Different cultures eat different breakfasts

I grew up in Canada, the country most culturally similar to America. I still remember the first time, as a kid, that I saw donuts offered as a hotel breakfast food during a road trip south of the border. It blew my mind: I thought of donuts as a mid-morning treat, not a breakfast one, and had no idea those categories could be blurred.

And cultures all around the world have different categories of what is and isn’t breakfast food. The Wikipedia page for breakfast by country has a fascinating breakdown of this. In Japan, it’s common to eat things like rice, grilled salmon, and vegetables for breakfast, whereas in parts of Latin America, rice and beans are commonly included. 

That’s all to say that the specific foods people eat for breakfast are a product of the culture they live in. And, it turns out, the culture you live in can be intentionally shaped. 

The breakfast conspiracy

Orange juice, bacon, and eggs—the all-American breakfast throughout history. Or is it? 

At least one part of that combination dates back to a specific advertising campaign. Edward Bernays, the nephew of Sigmund Freud, is arguably the reason we think of bacon as a breakfast food today. 

As the economist June Zaccone at Hofstra University outlined in a paper, Americans used to eat lighter breakfasts—some coffee and a roll, for example. Bernays, working for the Beech-Nut packing company in the 1920s, wanted to increase demand for bacon. He “decided that doctors were most likely to convince Americans about food,” according to the paper. He conducted a survey of doctors that “found that doctors recommend a hearty breakfast.” He used this survey, which didn’t mention bacon and was not exactly scientific, as the basis for a series of ads claiming bacon and eggs is the true all-American breakfast. 

It worked. And this is hardly ancient history—Bernays lived long enough that there’s even a video where he outlines the scheme. He worked in PR for decades after this, where he came up with diabolical campaigns like the one that linked Lucky Strike cigarettes with feminism.  

Too many oranges? No problem. A 1951 orange juice ad. Image: James Vaughan

Orange juice became a breakfast beverage because there was a surplus of oranges in the 1940s. Growers, rather than reducing production, decided to find new ways to market their product, and positioning it as a breakfast beverage worked well. This resulted in ads suggesting that drinking massive amounts of orange juice for breakfast was healthy. This video by Phil Edwards offers a great overview of some of the history of orange juices and its place in pop culture, if you’re interested. 

“The most important meal of the day”

Marketing’s influence on breakfast goes even further: the idea that breakfast is the most important meal of the day also has its origins more in marketing than science. The exact phrase “breakfast is the most important meal of the day” became popularized by a 1944 campaign for Grape Nuts. Over time it became a cultural truism, despite the scientific research on the relative importance of breakfast being mixed at best

Cereal companies have been particularly effective at using a combination of marketing and scientific-sounding claims. Until the industrial revolution breakfast tended to consist of leftovers from the day before. Concern about workers suffering from indigestion is part of what motivated the widespread popularity of breakfast cereals at that point, which were aggressively marketed as a healthier alternative to heavy foods like meat. 

Breakfast is whatever you eat in the morning

This isn’t to say that bacon, eggs, cereal, and orange juice aren’t a good breakfast—they all have nutritional upsides and downsides. However, our ideas of what qualifies as breakfast food are cultural distinctions, not scientific ones. We’ve collectively decided as a culture that certain foods are eaten in the morning and certain foods are not. Sometimes people even intentionally influence the culture of breakfast in order to sell specific goods. 

That’s not to suggest that categories are arbitrary—they all exist in a specific cultural context, affected by all sorts of facts, from the schedules we keep to the media we consume. But our idea of “breakfast foods” isn’t based on any kind of objectivity. People put eggs in stir fry, bacon on pizzas, and cereal in ice cream—none of those things become breakfast when you do so.

The post The science behind what we eat for breakfast appeared first on Popular Science.

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早餐 文化 营销 饮食习惯 Breakfast Culture Marketing Eating Habits
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